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Die negativen Auswirkungen des modernen Konsumverhaltens sind heute weithin bekannt, dennoch ist insbesondere die Modebranche weiterhin durch sehr niedrige Preise, kurze Produktlebensdauer und Massenkonsum gekennzeichnet. Die Folgen für Mensch und Umwelt sind gerade in der Kleidungsindustrie frappierend. Eine Veränderung des Konsumverhaltens in der breiten Bevölkerung hin zu einer Reduktion von Neukäufen, einer langen Nutzungsdauer der vorhandenen Kleidung und zum Kauf ökologisch und sozial verträglich hergestellter Produkte ist somit dringend notwendig. Ein wichtiger Erfolgsfaktor für die effektive Ansprache der Konsumierenden durch nachhaltiges Marketing von NGOs oder entsprechende Unternehmen ist die Berücksichtigung handlungsrelevanter Persönlichkeitsmerkmale aufseiten der Zielgruppe. Die wissenschaftliche Literatur zu Prädikatoren nachhaltiger Verhaltensweisen weist darauf hin, dass persönliche Werte eine wichtige Rolle für dessen Umsetzung spielen. Gleichzeitig wirkt sich insbesondere im Kleidungskonsum auch das Geschlecht bzw. Gender der/des Konsumierenden auf das Verhalten aus. Es existieren zahlreiche Hinweise darauf, dass das Geschlecht bzw. Gender zudem im Zusammenhang mit den Werteprioritäten einer Person steht. Ausgehend von dieser Datenlage werden in dieser Arbeit drei Themen mit Relevanz für die Nachhaltigkeitsforschung – persönliche Werte, Geschlecht/Gender und nachhaltiger Kleidungskonsum – zusammengeführt und auf ihre komplexe Wirkungsbeziehung hin untersucht. Auf Grundlage von Fokusgruppeninterviews wird erforscht, welche individuellen Wertorientierungen sich in welcher Weise und welcher Konstellation positiv auf ein nachhaltiges Kleidungskonsumverhalten auswirken und welche geschlechterspezifischen Unterschiede hierbei erkennbar werden. Durch die Berücksichtigung persönlicher konsumrelevanter Motivatoren und deren individueller Ausprägung werden Potenziale für eine zielgerichtete Verstärkung nachhaltigen Konsumverhaltens in der breiten Bevölkerung aufgedeckt. Dazu werden (1) vier Wertorientierungen mit Einfluss auf nachhaltigen Kleidungskonsum identifiziert, (2) ihre kausale Beziehung zu nachhaltigem Kleidungkonsum analysiert, (3) die geschlechtlichen Unterschiede berücksichtigt und (4) mit Gender ein Ansatzpunkt für die Erklärung der gefundenen Unterschiede angeführt. Zur Aufarbeitung der Daten wird die fsQCA zur Untersuchung des Themas nachhaltiger Kleidungskonsum angewandt. Die Natur dieser Auswertungsmethode, welche statt kausaler unidirektionaler Zusammenhänge zwischen zwei Variablen Schnittmengen zwischen zwei oder mehr Phänomenen untersucht, trägt zu einer neuen Perspektive auf die Beziehung zwischen Werten und nachhaltigem Kleidungskonsum bei. Eine wichtige Forschungsleistung dieser Arbeit besteht darin, gerade das Zusammenspiel der verschiedenen Werte zu betrachten und damit ein tieferes Verständnis von wichtigen Einflussfaktoren für nachhaltigen Kleidungskonsum zu ermöglichen. Dies ist ein Ansatz, welcher über die bisher existierenden Forschungserkenntnisse hinausgeht und für zukünftige Forschungsvorhaben zu Motiven für nachhaltigen Konsum hilfreich sein kann. Aus den gewonnenen Erkenntnissen werden Handlungsempfehlungen für die Kommunikation von NGOs und Unternehmen mit nachhaltiger Ausrichtung abgeleitet, wie eine zielgerichtete Ansprache zur Intensitätssteigerung dieser bereits vorhandenen Bedingungen gestaltet werden kann.

The dissertation consists of three scientific papers and a synopsis. The synopsis addresses the relevance of the dissertation and lists the key factors for the sustainability transition in the electricity system as a common denominator of the three papers. The relevance of the dissertation results, on the one hand, from the urgency of the sustainability transition in the electricity system and an insufficient transition willingness of the eastern European Member States. On the other hand, the Multi-Level-Perspective as one of the most important scientific frameworks to grasp transitions does not provide a sufficient explanation of its mechanisms. Moreover, Demand Response aggregators as new enterprises on the European electricity market and potential reform initiators are still under researched. The following key factors for the sustainability transition of the electricity system have been identified: supply security concerns, Europeanisation, policy making and the dominance of short-term oriented economic evaluation. Paper 1 The underlying factors in the uptake of electricity demand response: The case of Poland Author: Katarzyna Ewa Rollert Published: Utilities Policy, Volume 54, October 2018, 11-21, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jup.2018.07.002 Demand response (DR) is considered crucial for a more reliable, sustainable, and efficient electricity system. Nevertheless, DR’s potential still remains largely untapped in Europe. This study sheds light on the roots of this problem in the context of Poland. It suggests that unfavorable regulation is symptomatic of the real, underlying barriers. In Poland, these barriers are coal dependence and political influence on energy enterprises. As main drivers, supply security concerns, EU regulatory pressure, and a positive cost-benefit profile of DR in comparison to alternatives, are revealed. A conceptual model of DR uptake in electricity systems is proposed. Paper 2 Gaining legitimacy for sustainability transition: A social mechanisms approach Authors: Ursula Weisenfeld and Katarzyna Ewa Rollert Review and re-submit: Environmental Innovation and Societal Transitions / August 2021 Applying a social mechanisms approach to the Multi-Level Perspective, we conceptualize mechanisms of socio-technical transitions and of gaining legitimacy for transitions as co-evolutionary drivers and outcomes. Situational, action-formational, and transformational mechanisms that operate as drivers of change in a socio-technical transition require corresponding framing and framing contests to achieve legitimacy for that transition. We illustrate our conceptual insight with the case of the coal dependent Polish electricity system. Paper 3 Demand response aggregators as institutional entrepreneurs in the European electricity market Author: Katarzyna Ewa Rollert Under review: Journal of Cleaner Production / August 2021 Demand Response (DR) aggregators act as intermediaries between electricity customers and network operators to tap the potential of the demand-based flexibility. This qualitative study reveals DR aggregators as institutional entrepreneurs that struggle to reform the still largely supply-oriented European electricity market. Unfavourable regulation, low value of flexibility, resource constraints, complexity, and customer acquisition are the key challenges DR aggregators face. To overcome them they apply a combination of strategies: lobbying, market education, technological proficiency, and upscaling the business. The study highlights DR aggregation as an architectural innovation that alters the interplay between key actors of the electricity system and provides policy recommendations including the necessity to assess the real value of DR in comparison to other flexibility sources by taking all externalities into account, a technology-neutral approach to market design and the need for simplification of DR programmes, and common standards to reduce complexity and uncertainty for DR providers.

Despite growing research on sustainability transformations, our understanding of how transformative transdisciplinary research can support local actors who foster change towards sustainability is still somewhat limited. To contribute to this research question, I conducted research in a transdisciplinary case study in Southern Transylvania, where non-governmental organizations (NGO) drive sustainability initiatives to foster desired changes (e.g., supporting small-scale farmers or conserving natural and cultural heritage). Interactions with these local actors and reflections on my research question shaped the research of this dissertation, which I present in four papers. In paper 1, I conducted a literature review on amplification processes that describe actions, which local actors can apply to increase the impact of their sustainability initiatives. This is of interest in sustainability transformations research and practice because the impact of initiatives challenges incumbent regimes and consequently prepares transformations. I developed an integrated typology of amplification processes, which introduces new and innovative ways to conceptualize and study how initiatives increase their impact. The typology integrates theoretical insights on amplification processes from different frameworks that draw on diverse theories, such as resilience theory on transformations of social-ecological systems or sustainability transitions theory on transitions of socio-technical systems. This typology combines contemporary conceptualizations of amplification processes, informs transdisciplinary researchers working with local actors on increasing impact from initiatives, and has inspired debate and empirical research which contributes to theory development concerning amplifying impact of initiatives in diverse contexts. In paper 2, I conducted a literature review on the application of indigenous and local knowledge (ILK) in sustainability transformations research to understand whether this research engages with the conceptualization of transformations from local actors. The results show that ILK is generally applied to confirm and complement scientific knowledge in contexts of environmental, climate, social-ecological, and species change. Only four out of 81 papers (5%) applied ILK to conduct research on transformations. In addition, I identified four research clusters that apply ILK in contexts of transformation, transition, or change in Arctic, terrestrial, coastal, and grass and rangelands environments. Consequently, the review shows that only few empirical studies apply ILK to understand transformations. This indicates that sustainability transformations research lacks to include knowledge from local actors to conceptualize transformations, such as in the case of ILK. This has the potential to question scientific conceptualizations of transformations for theory development (e.g., resilience theory on transformations of social-ecological systems) and to enrich transformative transdisciplinary research. In paper 3, I derived principles that provide guidance for how to integrate sustainability initiatives from local actors in transformative transdisciplinary research. Based on my transdisciplinary research with the NGOs in Southern Transylvania and by using systems and futures thinking as an approach for analysis, I derived three principles that provide guidance for the co-design of sustainability intervention strategies that build on, strengthen, and complement existing initiatives from local actors. These principles contribute to transformative transdisciplinary research by highlighting and operationalizing the need to integrate initiatives from local actors to foster bottom-up, place-based transformations. In paper 4, I explored empirically how to identify relevant local actors for collaborations that seek to intervene in specific characteristics of a system (e.g., parameters or design of a system). I applied a leverage points’ perspective to analyse the social networks of the NGOs in Southern Transylvania that amplify the impact of their initiatives. My results suggest that there are two types of local actors for potential collaborations: local actors who have the ability to intervene in both shallow (i.e., parameters and feedbacks of a system) and deep (i.e., design and intent of a system) system characteristics, and local actors who have the ability to intervene only in specific system characteristics. In addition, my results indicate that the application of specific amplification processes is associated with the positions of local actors in their networks. Thus, paper 4 provides a novel methodological approach and first empirical insights for identifying potential relevant partners for specific system interventions. This supports in transformative transdisciplinary research the categorization of relations and networks of local actors according to the system characteristics that they address, and the selection of relevant partners for specific system interventions. This dissertation as a whole contributes insights to three recommendations of how transformative transdisciplinary research can support local actors fostering change towards sustainability: First, by conducting research that studies and supports local actors who increase the impact of their sustainability initiatives via amplification processes (Paper 1 and 4); Second, by engaging specifically with the initiatives, networks, and knowledge from local actors, who foster bottom-up, place-based transformations (Paper 1-4); Third, by identifying and collaborating with local actors that are relevant for strategic systems interventions that build on, strengthen, and complement existing initiatives (Paper 3-4). These three recommendations pave the way for an enhanced transformative transdisciplinary research that can potentially support local actors who with their initiatives, networks, and knowledge foster bottom-up, place-based sustainability transformations.

It is understood among research and policy makers that addressing unsustainable individual consumption patterns is key for the vision of sustainable development. Education for Sustainable Consumption (ESC) is attributed a pivotal role for this purpose, aiming to improve the capacity of individuals to connect to and act upon knowledge, values and skills in order to respond successfully and purposefully to the demands of sustainable consumption. Yet despite growing political, scientific, and educational efforts to foster more sustainable consumption practices through ESC, and increasing awareness about the negative ecological and socio-economic impacts of individual consumer behavior in the general population, little has been achieved to substantially change behavioral patterns so far. As part of the explanation for this shortcoming, it has been argued that current ESC practices have neglected the personal dimension of sustainable consumption, especially the affective-motivational processes underlying unsustainable consumption patterns. Against this background, this cumulative thesis is guided by the question how personal competencies for sustainable consumption can be defined, observed, and developed within educational settings. Special attention is given to mindfulness practices, describing the practice of cultivating a deliberate, unbiased and openhearted awareness of perceptible experience in the present moment. These practices have received growing attention within ESC as a means to stimulate competencies for sustainable consumption. Drawing upon an explorative, qualitative research methodology, the thesis looks at three different mindfulness-based interventions aiming to stimulate competencies for sustainable consumption, reaching out to a total number of 321 participants (employees and university students). In this thesis, I suggests to define personal competencies for sustainable consumption as abilities, proficiencies, or skills related to inner states and processes that can be considered necessary or sufficient to engage with sustainable consumption (SC). These include ethics, self-awareness, emotional resilience, selfcare, access to and cultivation of personal resources, access to and cultivation of ethical qualities, and mindsets for sustainability. It is argued that these competencies directly relate to those challenges individuals face when attempting to consume in a way that corresponds to their sustainability-related intentions or engage in SC-related learning activities. It provides evidence that the cultivation of (some of) these competencies allows individuals to overcome (some of) these challenges. The thesis holds that the observation of personal competencies benefits from a combination of different methodological and methodical angles. When working with self-reports as empirical data, a pluralistic qualitative methods approach can help overcoming shortcomings that are specifically related to individual methods while increasing the self-reflexivity of the research. This is especially important in order to reduce the risk of looking for desired outcomes and misinterpreting statements of the inquired population. This risk can also be diminished by discussing and adjusting interim findings with this population. Moreover, it is suggested to let learners analyze their own personal statements in groups, applying scientific methods. The products of the group analyses represent data based on an inter-subjectively shared perspective of learners that goes beyond self-estimation of personal competencies. In terms of developing personal competencies for SC, it can be concluded that mindfulness practice alone is not sufficient to build personal competencies for SC. While it can stimulate generic personal competencies, individuals do not necessarily apply these competencies within the domain of their consumption. Furthermore, even though the practice increases individuals’ self-awareness for current inner states and processes, practitioners do not seem to become aware of and reflect upon the more latent, personal predispositions out of which the current sensations occur. Nevertheless, mindfulness practice can play an important role in ESC, insofar as it lays the inner foundation to engage with sustainability-related issues. More precisely, it allows learners to experience the relevance of their inner states and processes and the influence they have on actual behaviors, leading to a level of selfawareness that would not be accessible solely through discursive-intellectual means. Furthermore, participants experience mindfulness practice as a way to develop ethical qualities and access psychological resources, entailing stronger emotional resilience and improved well-being. In order to unleash its full potential for stimulating personal competencies for SC, however, the findings of the thesis suggest that mindfulness practice should be (a) complemented with methodically controlled self-inquiry and (b) related to a specific behavioral change. In this vein, self-inquiry-based and self-experience-based learning – two pedagogical approaches developed during the period of research for this thesis – turned out to be promising pedagogies for educational settings striving to stimulate the development of personal competencies for SC. Overall, the thesis makes a novel contribution to the field of competency-based ESC by suggesting personal competencies for sustainable consumption as important and desirable learning outcomes of ESC practices Furthermore, it provides specific pedagogies and learning activities in order to achieve these learning outcomes. As such, the thesis answers to general calls from education for sustainable development scholars to take the inner, affective-motivational dimension of individuals into consideration and makes a first suggestion as to how this can be systematically achieved.

Jedes Jahr landen weltweit rund 1,3 Milliarden Tonnen Lebensmittel auf dem Müll. Deren Produktion verbraucht knapp ein Drittel des globalen Ackerlandes sowie 250 Kubikkilometer Wasser und entlässt dabei mehr als drei Milliarden Tonnen Kohlendioxid in die Atmosphäre. Gleichzeitig leidet mehr als ein Zehntel der Weltbevölkerung an Hunger und Unterernährung. Deshalb ist es erklärtes Ziel der Europäischen Kommission, die Zahl der entsorgten Lebensmittel bis 2020 in der EU zu halbieren. Dieses Vorhaben ist für Bäckereien besonders ehrgeizig, da Brot und Backwaren meist nur einen Tag lang verkauft werden können. Diese Arbeit beschäftigt sich mit innerbetrieblichen Potentialen an der Schnittstelle von Produktion und Verkauf zur Vermeidung von Lebensmittelabfällen. Außerdem liefert sie einen konkreten Konzeptvorschlag zur Optimierung des innerbetrieblichen Bestellprozesses.